Posts Tagged ‘venice’

What the Window Frames

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Some of my favorite things about my apartment in Rome are the windows that open wide to look down on the bustling street of Cola di Rienzo below. Windows, shuttered, unshuttered, glass or iron grated, dominate the facades of most buildings in Rome. Tourists photograph them, sometimes not even knowing why. I count myself among this lot. Windows in Italy in general are beautiful, and there is something magical about them in an ineffable way. I feel compelled to take pictures of beautiful windows in the same way I feel compelled to take pictures of sunsets; it isn’t just for the beauty, there is something else I am trying to capture that I simply cannot explain. A mystery surrounds it, maybe it is what lies behind the shuttered windows, maybe it is the fact that behind every closed window lies a home, a world’s center, in which countless memories, experiences, and tiny everyday moments occur that I may never know about.

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But now I find myself in the curious position of being on the other side of the window frame. I am lucky enough to be one of the lives that exist unseen from the looker-ons below on the top layer of windows that speckle the Roman façade of this apartment building. I am the one within the window looking out, the one hidden from those looking on from outside. What I have discovered from my perch above the streets of Rome is that even on the inside, you never stop looking. Just as those down below crane their necks to look to the windows above, those behind the windows are still looking out, either up or back down below.

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I am not alone in this either, I see my neighbors, and the people across the street in the apartment buildings all around my own, and they are always looking. There is something unique about the look of a watcher, something that speaks of a desire that comes from an unknown place in your soul. A searching soul. They know not what they are searching for, but they are endlessly driven to look, never knowing the origin or the destination, only knowing the face of what they seek when it is right before them. Then and only then is it clear where or what our seeking eyes were wandering towards.

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People will come to their windows, some will throw them open with grace of arms opened wide, others stand behind the glass with their nose only centimeters from the glass. Others emerge onto flower covered balconies, resting their elbows on the wrought iron fences that mark the outer limits of their personal world, turning their head this way and that endlessly. But the most important moment of looking isn’t the approach, or the slow wandering of eyes over what there is to survey above or below, it is the moment that person turns away. There is a strange pain in that lingering moment, the desire to never stop looking, but pulled by the weight of other everyday necessities, the seeker slowly turns, the body twisted, but the eyes remain looking over their shoulders. Seemingly unwilling to stop the never-ending search, hoping that in that last moment of looking the object of desire will be made know. But often, nothing illuminates itself, and the seeker sadly turns and walks back into their home to return to the normal everyday actions that beckon back inside.

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What intrigues me even more than watching the other seekers from within their window frames, are the windows that remain shut. The windows that, even if the window shade is not drawn, no seeker ever comes to peer through the glass onto the world below. There are so many seekers, and over my months here I have come to know many of them as they come forth from their homes out into the light to look, but there are still more yet, that even though I see movement in their occupied homes, they never come to the window. These people are the ones that make me wonder. Do they have nothing to seek? Did they not hear the call of their soul to search? Or did they already find what their soul was endlessly searching for? Those windows interest me, the ones who seem to have no need to seek.

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What the window frames will always be a mystery to me, the common thread that ties my life to all of those in the buildings around me. We are always searching together, maybe for different things, or maybe we are all searching for the same thing, maybe we seek each other, or maybe we seek to be seen. I do not have the answer only the ability to recognize the yearning in almost every window that surrounds me. A community of strangers, linked in this tiny habit, but unknown to each other in our independent worlds that just keep spinning even in those small moments where the seeker takes a moment to poke their heads out of their world in search of something other.

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If every window holds a world, then every building is its own universe, and I have found myself an explorer of worlds, desiring nothing more than to know the contents of what lies beyond the window just as an astronaut strives to discover new planets while drifting in the dark empty cold of space, knowing that there is more to life than your own little world.

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Tuscany

Friday, September 30th, 2011

The difference between Venice and Tuscany is dramatic. Escaping from the lovely hurried bustle of life that is Venice for the countryside where time seems to pleasantly crawl by. Everything moves so much slower here and make so much more sense. The simplistic beauty in overlooking acres of vineyards and Tuscan homes is astounding. I felt like I could breathe here, life here, and experience beauty in its most basic form, right here.

 

During our search for our hotel we stopped in a tiny Tuscan village for a quick stretch break. We found this gigantic monastery, or church at the top of the tiny village that was just marvelous. There are so many flowers here and so much greenery, it just makes everything seems so much more vivid and full of life.

Tuscany just makes me sigh with wonder every time I see the rolling green hills and the beautiful brick houses with laundry lines hanging from windows. It is so peaceful here. Coming from Venice where life is loud, robust, fast, and complicated, Tuscany is a well needed breath of fresh air. Not to say I didn’t enjoy Venice, because I very much did, it was just so refreshing to see two very different lifestyles in Italy that are in such close proximity with each other.

Our hotel was amazing! Hotel Salivolpi was a tiny little farm-house with many little rooms that were so quaint and relaxing, it really felt like a vacation. I could have stayed there for weeks. There was a pool, gardens and all centered right next to vineyard that really was the quintessential feel of Tuscany.

There was even a separate little building to eat breakfast in down a beautifully sloping grassy hill.

 

It was so nice there, I really hope to go back someday. Not only was the building nice but the people were so kind. Even though I could not speak their language or they mine, there was such a welcoming feeling that it felt like home.

What is Tuscany without its fields of sunflowers?

We stumbled upon a field of sunflowers (that we actually had to hop some fences to get to) that was beyond glorious. It just lit up the whole area like its own personal sun.

What else can I say? I love Tuscany and I can’t wait to go back.

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Venice: Accademia and Glass Art Show

Friday, September 23rd, 2011

Right on the Grand Canal is the Accademia, a magnificent ancient religious art museum full of grandeur and mystery.

Hall after hall, room after room, filled with old representations of faith and religion. It is an interesting representation of faith through the ages through creative images. The paintings range from angelic to gruesome and simple beauty to intricate creativity. It is sort of overwhelming the amount of faith in one building. To think that each one of these paintings was made by a person that was so moved by faith and so dedicated to what they believed they had to share it with the world.

After we left the Accademia we had a quick lovely lunch in a campo where I had a ratatouille that was amazing. On our way to walk around we noticed a contemporary glass art show right near by us. So we decided to try it out and it was so much fun!

The first piece was a glass emu constructed of large glass marbles. It made for some very fun photo opportunities.

There were all sorts of other exhibits we had fun looking at and playing with for a while.

Outside was another strange exhibit, the Narrow House. A House that is incredibly narrow, maybe five feet wide.

We got to go inside and it has everything a normal house would, everything is just very skinny. There was a skinny phone, a skinny toilet and all sorts of other things. Oh and a tiny closet.

It was really fun just going and around and exploring odd parts of Venice like this. Sadly we had to leave Venice that next day and continue our journey onward to Tuscany.

 

 

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Venice: Alley Ways

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011

One amazing thing about Venice are its alley ways. You travel through the heart of the city by walking down twists and turns of alley ways, some lead nowhere while others bring you to your destination. Venice is a labyrinth of alley ways filled with amazing little artisan shops. Every turn you take leads you down a new one, and to new things.

 

Some are filled with color, others are dark and dank. Some are peaceful and romantic while others are crowded and chaotic. But you can always look up and see beautiful blue sky.

Alley ways are not reserved just for ground, the waterways for intricate alley ways as well with lines of houses and shops surrounding you.

 

I love the alley ways in Venice because you never know what the next will look like. There is such beauty and variety that you can never get bored.

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Venice: Windows and Doors

Monday, September 19th, 2011

There is so much beauty in Venice it is a shame to have to divide it up like I am doing, but in reality it is the only way it can be done. There are so many doors and windows in Venice that look so beautiful, yet are always closed. It is this idea of beauty hidden behind closed doors in Venice that is astounding. people come to Venice to see the sights like the Campanile and St Mark’s Basilica, but the hidden wonders of Venice, that lie behind those closed doors is where the really mysterious wonders lie. Here are just a few of the beautiful windows and doors I stumbled upon during our wonders that reminded me of this hidden splendor that I or you may never actually come to know.

 

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Venice: Piazza San Marco

Thursday, September 15th, 2011

Venice is extraordinary and one of its most stunning assets is Piazza San Marco. A massive square which contains the Campanile, St. Mark’s Basilica, and lots of pigeons.

Filled with tourists, this place can seem overwhelming but there is so much beauty and awe-inspiring architecture in this small area that it truly can blow your mind.

First and foremost is the Campanile, which at my new home at UC Berkeley lies a close cousin of this monumental tower. The dazzling brick monolith stands high above all else in Venice and stands as a musical guardian over the city.

We waited in quite a line  to get into the tower and then crammed in a stylish elevator for a ride up to the highest point in the city. The view was in no way disappointing.

It seems like the whole city is within your grasp. Huge expanses of red roofs, rising cathedral of church towers and twisting streets gripping the sides of dark waterways. There really is nothing like it. Looking over the giant square that is the piazza and turning every which way and seeing red roofs for what feels like miles.

In the Piazza itself was an amusing spectacle. Hundreds of pigeons filling the square where people where feeding them and letting them crawl all over them. It was extremely entertaining to watch but I would never let those gross rats with wings touch me. More photos of this will be seen later.

 

 

The Basilica was beyond words. This overly ornate structure is a house of gods built by thieves. A strange concept to build a holy structure entirely constructed of goods that were stolen from other places like Constantinople or any of the other numerous Venetian neighbors. It amounted to quite a spectacle.

The inside of the church was covered in gold and the most amazing feats of architecture. It is a strange concept though, if not an hypocritical one to build a church out of stolen goods. Whether the grounds of which this place was constructed is correct or not, it still amounted to an intricate and stunning structure that is nearly indescribable.

 

The Piazza San Marco was an amazing and awe inspiring place, it is still hard to believe that the Venetians were able to squeeze that much beauty into a small square.

 

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Venice: Rialto and Grand Canal

Tuesday, September 13th, 2011

Waking up in the morning and walking outside into a bright sunny city were noise seems to happily embrace you is an experience unknown to me before Venice. To feel the life, the heartbeat of the city pulsing with movement, joy, and vibrancy with every breath and word uttered in the near vicinity. Italy is a place of passion, where people do not simply go through the motions of life, they live it. I felt that here in Venice and love it.

We took a water taxi as a method of touring the marvelous Grand canal of Venice. The open expansive water ways bordered by buildings like cliff edges. The buildings are beautiful and old-looking. Some dilapidated, others wildly vibrant with color and life. I was told that actually Venice is not very inhabited in the home on the Canal, only the rich can afford it so many of these beautiful homes ar left empty, to watch over the waterways like silent lonesome guardians.

The color of Venice is gorgeous, each green waterway leads down some beautiful alleyway where mysterious adventures lie waiting for other times. There is just a majesty unmatched here and it leaves you with an astounding feeling of awe and appreciation for this sinking city.

It feels almost like magic as we ride on our boat through the veins of the city, watching life unravel before us, hearing snippets of italian on the wind and sounds of life.

 

Our first stop in Venice besides the Grand Canal boat ride was the Rialto Bridge. This great white arch over the Grand Canal is teeming with people, street vendors, and glorious merchant/ artisan shops.

It is a center of activity and we made sure to stop at the Rialto market to buy some fruit for later.

It is strange, at Italian markets they do not let you touch anything. No testing of ripeness or for bad spots on fruit, you tell the merchant what type you want and how many and they give you which ever they choose. This was very strange for me to actually be chastised for touching fruit that I was going to buy.

They also had some interesting foods that I am not used to seeing at my local farmer’s market. It was really fun interacting with the people who just try to live their lives here in Venice, not tourists.

On the actual Rialto we found beautiful shops full of Venetian glass, handmade leather, and of course Venetian masks made with artful and caring hands. It was ana amazing way to start our adventure. Once off the water, an entire new world of Venice is revealed, hidden in dark alley ways, bright open Piazzas, and artisan shops as well as magnificent restaurants. All of this was waiting on th other side of that bridge, and we crossed it hungrily.

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Venice: An Introduction

Monday, September 12th, 2011

Venice truly is a fairytale place. A whole new world of wonders, where romance is all around you and there is no escaping the beauty of this city which lives and breathes the essence of Italy.

We arrived in Venice after our stop in Austria and had to leave our trusty car behind because no vehicles are allowed in the actual city. From there we took a train into Venice and had an adventure trying to locate our hotel. This city is so alive and constantly moving that dragging your luggage up and down stairs and canal walkways is actually quite difficult to do. Eventually we found where we were supposed to be staying only to find that the office was closed and the owner gone away. Luckily we begged a vendor next door to hunt down the hotel clerk so we could actually get the key to our room. After some serious anxiety over possibly not having a hotel, we were able to check in safe and sound.

The hotel was very nice, basically a small apartment with two bedrooms, a bathroom, a dinning area, and a lovely little courtyard out back surrounded by the tall walls that build up Venice. Our first order or business? Not unpacking, but mosquito hunting. We had to hunt down and kill every mosquito in the room. Like crazy people we were running all over the rooms smacking mosquitos and rejoicing in their demise. It was a satisfying experience.

After we settled for a small while we decided to go out and get a taste of Venice Nightlife and grab some real italian food by the Grand Canal. It feels like no one sleeps here, even late at night there is life everywhere. We sat right on the water and were enjoying a nice meal when all of a sudden hell broke loose. Two men started fighting right next to us. at first I thought someone had fallen into the canal and that was what the ruckus was all about. I was sorely mistaken. Two men, I believe to be opposing restaurant owners started screaming at each other in italian and get way to close to each other. One even chased the other down trying to get a good hit in. It died down as quickly as it started however and one of the men walked away in a storm. Believing it to be over, I went back to my room. Little did I know in the few minutes I was gone, the real fight broke out. Apparently as soon as I left, the guy came running back and attacked the man he was earlier fighting with in front of us. They literally attacked each other and at one point one of the waiters had to beat the guy with a stick to get him off of the other man. By the end everyone was bloody, face torn, shirts ripped, and overall, an interesting first night in Venice.

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Europe: Travel Update

Friday, July 8th, 2011

For those of you who are not aware, I have been in Europe for the last week. I have been without internet and will soon be again, so I will just give a quick update. We started in Germany with a flight to Munich, after several days there we left for Venice, on the way we also stopped in Austria. We had a magical stay in Venice and have just finally moved on to Tuscany where we are currently staying in Chianti, a very small wine village right between Florence and Siena. After a day trip to Florence today tomorrow we are moving on to Siena and ending our day in Vinci, Italy.

Soooooo if you didn’t catch all of that I have been to Germany, Austria, and Italy. I am having the time of my life and can’t believe I am almost half way done with this trip already. Frankly it breaks my heart, but this is the advenutre of a lifetime and I am trying to appreciate every single moment of it.

Here are some random pictures of our adventures so far, when I return from my escapades in Europe I will elaborate and provide all stories, observations, and of course, pictures.

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